By The Wiz
Instead of finding a white dresser for my girls’ room, I have decided to (gulp) paint their existing dresser white and change out the hardware. Cheaper? Yes. Uglier? Possibly. Disaster? Likely. Am I going to do it anyway? Yes. (see:cheaper).
But, I need help, since I have never done anything like this before (which I know surprises you). Anyone have experience with painting furniture? Is spray paint the way to go, or is it the devil and I should run far, far away from it? Do I have to get a special primer? Do I NEED primer? Am I crazy?
Here is a picture of the dresser in its current condition:
Of course, it doesn’t lean over weirdly, like this picture would suggest. Hey, I’m not opening a photography business anytime soon.
At least one of you knows how to do this. This I know.
It’s easy. I can line it out here, or you could just call me.
Comment #1 by Tracy MOctober 21st, 2009 at 10:48 amPlease outline it here for the rest of us that are nervous-but-intrigued who have always wanted to be brave and do it too!
Comment #2 by TiffanyOctober 21st, 2009 at 10:50 amYes, please do line it out here in detail. When you have a spare moment, Tracy. I’ve always wanted to be the kind of person who does this kind of brave thing.
Comment #3 by AhnaOctober 21st, 2009 at 11:02 amOkay, it’s really not hard at all.
1) remove all the hardware. Usually just a screwdriver is all that’s required.
2) wipe the wood down well, and give it a very light sanding with a sanding sponge or high number paper. (this helps the new paint adhere better)
3) Get a high-quality cabinet-grade latex paint. Most home stores carry a cabinet paint, which means it’s made to adhere to wood that’s already been finished- and it will wear much better than a low-grade latex paint. (Latex just means it’s water-soluble and doesn’t need a thinner to clean up)
4) Take all the drawers out to paint them separately from the chest.
5) A good brush will give you better results- buy one made for latex paint.
6) Carefully paint on thin coats, following the grain of the wood, and following the directions on the can for “cure time” between coats. Usually two or three is all that’s needed. If it’s cool where you are, you may need to give it more time to cure.
7) Give it plenty of time to dry (a few days in the garage) and out-gas (paint fumes) before you bring it in the house.
8) Before you buy your new cute hardware, measure the distance between the holes. Usually they are standard, but not always, and it’s wretched to have cute knobs and have them not fit. The guys as HD or Lowes or Ace will have no problem helping with that.
9) Get come cute wrapping paper and re-paper the insides of the drawers, too!
Comment #4 by Tracy MOctober 21st, 2009 at 11:19 amThanks Tracy M.! I have friends and family who do this all the time, but they all seem to have different ways/products/techniques and it all confuses me. I like a simple, straight forward explanation. I know some will say, well you can do it like that, but……..
I don’t care. If it worked for you, it being that simple, then it can surely work for me.
Thanks for the inspiration you two!
Comment #5 by JodyOctober 21st, 2009 at 11:37 amI recently learned a few great lessons about what NOT to do while repainting furniture. They are obvious, but still great.
I used spray paint because I’m lazy and it seemed easier. It was easy, but not cheaper. Also, very fume-y.
IF you decide to go with spray paint, which will give a very nice, even looking finish and it’s faster than painting with a brush, then just make sure you don’t do it ona windy day, like I did. Also make sure you buy THE GOOD, EXPENSIVE spray paint. I bought the 96 cent cans from walmart at first and used about ten of them before I realized I should go back and buy the 3 dollar cans of krylon. After I did that, it only took two coats and no priming to finish the job. I know this info is not as incredibly helpful as Tracy’s, but it’s just another option for you if you are wary of using brushes because it might look uneven or gunky, like I am always worried about.
Anyway, good luck and I can’t wait to see the “After” of your dresser makeover!
Comment #6 by mellocelloOctober 21st, 2009 at 12:13 pmAre sure you want to repaint that dresser? It looks pretty good from the photo. If it is a cheap wood product (chipboard, etc) OK but if it is solid real wood, that is another thing. Why not just give it a good cleaning and light sanding (very fine grit)and cover it with some polyurethane (semi-gloss). Or, strip it and restain it in a lighter wood finish (honey maple, etc). IMO, most DIY furniture repaint jobs are less than perfect and leave owners with regrets. Good luck.
Comment #7 by Mex DavisOctober 21st, 2009 at 12:17 pmI have some good, expensive spray paint. I’m wondering whether or not I should take it back, and do the brush thing. I am scared of drips and brush strokes showing, you know, stuff like that.
But I also worry that spray paint would get sticky and “tacky” feeling, especially on the top. Someone else told me to do something on top of the dresser, something like a polyurethane so it wouldn’t be sticky on top. Does that sound familiar to anyone?
The after picture won’t be for a while, I’m afraid. I’m going up tomorrow for my second set of infusions, and will be in Utah for a couple of weeks. And as much as I am in TOTAL AVOIDANCE MODE, when it comes to getting ready, starting a painting project seems a bit much, even for me. But I did want the advice.
Comment #8 by The WizOctober 21st, 2009 at 12:19 pmMex Davis, you commented right as I did. The reason I’m doing white is because we recently went back to bunk beds, and got white ones, and there is a white desk in that room. The dresser looks very out of place now.
It came with the house, so I’m actually not positive if it is “real” wood or not. It’s definitely not particle board.
Stripping and restaining seems like a ton of work. Is it?
Comment #9 by The WizOctober 21st, 2009 at 12:22 pmWe have refinished lots of furniture in our home, and we always use spray paint. If you know how to paint evenly, then I personally think it looks nicer and cleaner than using paint and a brush. Spray paint is not cheaper, but it’s still cheaper than a new dresser! Oh, and yes, pick out your hardware before you even start painting because if you want to change distance, or hole placement then you’ll want to fill the old holes with wood filler and sand it all down smooth BEFORE you paint.
Stripping and re-staining is a ton of work if you have lots of edges or decorative work because you have to stand all the way down to the wood. I’ve done it, but wouldn’t recommend it unless you have oodles of time.
Comment #10 by ChrissyOctober 21st, 2009 at 12:40 pmI would definitely use a primer made for covering stains. When I painted my son’s dresser (years ago, but it turned out really cute!) I was really grateful I had. The stain bled through into the primer a ton, but the primer trapped it and kept it from bleeding through (or even showing through) the final coat. (We did one coat of primer, and 1-2 (I don’t remember which) of the regular white paint.) Also, you can get hardware that is a different size from the original (we switched from handles similar to yours to knobs), but you’ll want to buy wood putty and fill in the existing holes before you do the painting. Good luck, hope it turns out great!
Comment #11 by VadaOctober 21st, 2009 at 12:44 pmSomeone gave us a white crib, and we found a nice white rocker on craigslist, so we decided to repaint our old oak changing table / dresser white as well. We removed the hardware. We didn’t sand it down before painting. I went the spray paint route - used the Kilz primer that sticks to ANYTHING, including laminate and old finish. I put about three coats of that on, then sprayed it with regular white semi-gloss paint. It looks great and it was pretty easy, just took some time waiting for each coat to dry. DH and I were high as kites.
Comment #12 by SueOctober 21st, 2009 at 12:45 pmI tried spray painting a coffee table a few months ago, and it was miserable. Once I bought real paint and primer, though, it turned out beautifully. So I would echo Tracy’s call for real paint.
Comment #13 by kewOctober 21st, 2009 at 12:46 pmOh, and keep in mind that if the wood has tons of grain, it will take more coats to cover it up evenly.
Comment #14 by SueOctober 21st, 2009 at 12:46 pmI think you should buy a new dresser from IKEA, because I predict that you’ll end up doing that anyway. Put this dresser in the boy’s room or a guest room. Save yourself all the swearing!
Comment #15 by wbprawOctober 21st, 2009 at 1:08 pmWiz I think that’s a great idea. And I think you’ll be pleased just how much difference a coat of paint will make.
I’ve painted some furniture in my life and the only thing I’d add to what Tracy said is to maybe use a good primer as well–that’s what I do to avoid sanding. Some primers don’t require sanding beforehand and help the paint stick. And if you’re doing white you might only need 1 coat of primer and 1 coat of paint.
Also, you can totally do it with spray paint-here’s a great step by step from a design blog on spray painting a credenza. Also–there is a $3 attachment you can get for the spray cans so they don’t kill your finger. Anyway, here’s the link–check it out.
http://littlegreennotebook.blogspot.com/2009/10/office.html
Good luck!
Comment #16 by MiggyOctober 21st, 2009 at 2:01 pmwbpraw - your confidence in my abilities in overwhelming.
Ikea is too far away. Otherwise….
Miggy, that link was very helpful. Thanks.
Comment #17 by The WizOctober 21st, 2009 at 2:50 pmWiz, stripping and restaining is a TON of work. Just go look at my piano restoration- don’t do it.
Spray paint works great- but as has been said, it’s fume-y and drips are a real problem. You can do it, and you can get a nice surface- I have- but it really takes a controlled environment to do so.
A brush, if you use a high-quality one, and a nice thick good quality paint, will smooth out any brushstrokes. (it’s called self-levelling in paint parlance).
For a novice, a GOOD brush and GOOD paint are a way better bet.
Comment #18 by Tracy MOctober 21st, 2009 at 4:00 pmI have done both–spray paint and paint and brush. I so prefer the spray paint. Do it in your garage, with the big garage door open on a non-windy day. Take your time and stay about a foot away from the surface or you you’ll get drips. I read a blog a contractor writes and he prefers spray paint too. Best wishes!
Comment #19 by StephanieOctober 21st, 2009 at 10:54 pmIf you spray paint, either do it outdoors on a totally still day (that is warm enough), or use painter’s drop cloths or plastic to cover everything in your garage. Overspray on your car/bike/toolbox isn’t what you want to have when you’re done. Professionals spray their paint in a spray booth that contains the overspray and cuts down on drafts. Maybe you could rig a “booth” in your garage to give it time to dry between coats.
Comment #20 by mommie dearestOctober 22nd, 2009 at 3:03 amLast August I painted a cheap side table I got at the discount store. It was very plain except for a little molding on the single drawer, with a yellow faux-shabby finish that I wanted dark brown. I took out the drawer, removed the knob, and sanded all over every surface pretty thoroughly with a fine grit paper to cut the finish (and give the paint a surface to adhere to), wiped off the dust with tack cloth, and then sprayed 2 light coats of good quality paint. (Rustoleum Ultra Cover satin from the bigbox hardware store) I sprayed outdoors in my front yard early in the morning to avoid the heat, but there was still a faint breeze that made it hard to get good coverage unless I held the nozzle closer than I wanted. It turned out fine though. It dried quickly (>20 minutes) so I was able to turn it over and get the undersides, and then do it all again before it got too hot. I put down a large piece of cardboard under the table to contain the worst of the overspray.
Good luck…looking forward to seeing the after pic!
Wiz, Just sand real well with fine sandpaper, clean and then paint. Spray painting can be tricky put does a faster job. Good paint makes the difference. Good luck, have fun, hope the kids like the results.
Comment #21 by Mex DavisOctober 22nd, 2009 at 6:44 amThe problem with spray paint (and I DO use it) is that it’s much tricker to get a good finish and not make a mess. I know the Wiz, and I know she needs success.
Spray paint can give a fantastic finish, and it does dry waaay faster. BUT, the overspray, wind, dust, insects dropping in on the damp paint- all of these factors come into play- unless you have/can rig a spray booth. If you make a mistake in spray painting, there is NO touching it up. You cannot pluck a no-see-em fly from the paint and smooth over the mark. You cannot fix an inadvertent drip.
I stand by my original recommendation: Good paint. Good brush. More dry time for fixing mistakes. Better end product. Happier Wiz.
Comment #22 by Tracy MOctober 22nd, 2009 at 8:04 amI’d like to know the time difference between spray paint and a good paint-n-brush. Are we talking hours? days? How’s about using the brush in the case of drips, bugs, hair with the spray paint? Not a good idea?
I’m one for time efficiancy and the lure of being able to THROW AWAY cans instead of spending a chunk of money on an expensive brush and paint. I know everyone says, “oh, but you’ll use it again”. Well, that’s IF I do a good job, it was EASY and FAST and if I actually WANT to use that brush again. Being as I’ve never tried this before, what if I go all out with the brush and paint and it takes FOREVER only to see it didn’t turn out that good? I’ve used spray paint before, had good results from it and I’m comfortable using it. It just seems easier to me with near to same results as the other.
And like Wiz said about it being tacky, I’d be willing to get another sealer for the top if needs be. Is there a big difference in wear and tear using spray paint?
Comment #23 by JodyOctober 22nd, 2009 at 9:59 amNooooo, not a good idea! Even dust mars the finish of spray paint. If you stroke a brush along it, what will happen is the paint will drag and pull. When it’s completely dry and cured (end of the day, usually) you will have to sand it like crazy, then repaint. It’s doable, and it works- but it’s a hassle. Ditto any drips, smudges, dust, insects or stray anything blowing through your garage.
Do not be afraid of a can of latex paint. I get my brushes at the dollar store. A good brush doesn’t have to be expensive- just make sure the bristles are super soft. Hard bristles leave brush marks.
Spray paint can look fantastic. I have three pieces in my line of sight that I painted with spray paint- and I love them. It’s just easier to screw up and feel dejected with spray paint.
Knock yourselves out.
Comment #24 by Tracy MOctober 22nd, 2009 at 11:29 amOh, and if you let ANY paint cure properly, it should not be tacky.
Spray paint will be dry to the touch in a short time- within minutes, usually. Latex, about an hour. But that doesn’t mean, with either one, that they are cured and really DRY.
Spray paint will need to cure at least overnight. If it’s still smelling strongly, it’s NOT done curing!
Comment #25 by Tracy MOctober 22nd, 2009 at 11:32 amFor me, it’s the quality of the piece that dictates spray vs. brush. Cheap particle board is definitely spray. Solid hardwood is brush. If you use a satin finish opaque color you probably won’t need to do a clear varnish topcoat. I refinished a wooden (pine) surface top attached to an old sewing machine trestle with just polyurethane (clear) sealer, but I brushed on multiple coats and sanded between coats. It took a few days, but it made a great smooth work surface that wipes clean. Brushing takes more time, but it is more forgiving if you need to fix little glitches. Or even big ones.
And a good quality soft brush is essential.
Comment #26 by mommie dearestOctober 22nd, 2009 at 2:22 pm2 years ago I painted bunkbeds and a dresser that we bought for the kids at a yard sale. NOt hard at all to do…just time consuming. So here is how I did it.
Lightly sand the whole thing down. Then wipe it all down to get the dust off.
Do 1 coat of primer. Not from a spray can, but a gallon bucket from Home Depot. Use a roller.
Then do 2 coats (or more if needed) of paint. I prefer Behr paint in gloss finish for furniture. Use a foam roller for the smoothest finish with no roller marks.
if you really want it to shine and hold up to scratches, you can put a coat of polyurathane (sp?) on it. But for a dresser, you probably don’t need it. I didn’t use it and mine has been fine.
Let it dry for a few days before you use it. I think it can take a couple of weeks for the paint to fully cure. But ours is still holding up really well.
Good luck!
Comment #27 by AubreyOctober 22nd, 2009 at 2:42 pmOh…I forgot to specify that I used Behr interior latex enamel. It’s really good paint and haold up really well. And don’t use a brush unless you have crevices you have to get into. Use a roller for the smoothest finish.
Comment #28 by AubreyOctober 22nd, 2009 at 2:46 pmAnd because I haven’t commented enough already…
Comment #29 by AubreyOctober 22nd, 2009 at 2:48 pmYes you really should prime. Or you will end up using a whole lot of white paint to cover that dark dresser without streaking, only to watch is slowly peel off over time and use. Priming is totally worth it.
thanks for the good tips, ladies. and thanks to The Wiz…..I may be attempting this, too. (if I can get past the why-would-you-ever-paint-a-stained-wood-dresser husband…..he doesn’t want me to and thinks I’m crazy…..but that’s for another post.)
Comment #30 by JodyOctober 23rd, 2009 at 8:16 amOK, I’m a wood purist, for the most part. But. BUT. Sometimes, it’s okay to paint. Not ALL wood is good. Repeat that to yourself…
Don’t paint over a valuable piece, an antique piece with good grain, or a family heirloom. But if it’s just mediocre wood with no intrinsic value, and painting it a bright color would make you happy, it really IS okay to paint.
I see no point in living with things you don’t like, just because someone told you they were important.
Comment #31 by Tracy MOctober 23rd, 2009 at 8:59 amTracy M., I’m hoping your awesome comments will convince my hubby. Our dresser looks almost exactly like Wiz’s, but a bit darker. It’s a good, quality, all-wood dresser (pine, I think?), but it’s outdated. I just want to do a simple matte black to match our bed; maybe sand the edges a bit for a shabby chic/pottery barn look. It’s got those “popular-back-in-the-eighties” fake brass eagle wing pulls. They’ve surely got to go.
I love your advice about keeping it the way it is just because someone said it’s important.
thanks!
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Comment #33 by Tobias VarillasJune 23rd, 2012 at 3:47 am